Yom Kippur

Today is Tuesday and it's Yom Kippur Eve -- the day that even secular Jews go to synagogue.  I started the morning at the Coffee Mill which is about 200 m from my front door. While there I saw a woman with a Qualitative Methods Handbook that I wasn't familiar with, so I asked her about it. About two minutes later she and her friend were quizzing me about what I was doing in Jerusalem, had I made aliyah, where did I live, and where was I working out Five minutes later I knew all the pools, yoga and pilates studios to check out in the neighbourhood. Ten minutes later I had an invitation to dinner at Bonnie's and to attend a Reform synagogue service with Naomi.

It turns out Bonnie and Naomi are both Orthodox Jews from New York. Naomi has made aliyah and spends about 3/4 of the year in Israel; Bonnie would like to make aliyah, but instead is based in Manhattan and visits Israel 4-6 times a year.

I took Bonnie up on her invitation, she lives just 4 doors down the street from me, also in a Templar home that has been converted into apartments. We were three -- Bonnie, her son, and me -- and I think there was probably enough food for at least 6. And, I was implored to "eat, eat"! Bonnie wanted to assure me that in inviting me to a service, Naomi wasn't trying to convert me. (After the episode at Christ Church on Sunday, I was, admittedly wondering. I have since been assured by other Jews that proselytizing to non-Jews is highly unusual.)  We were just finishing up when the siren went at 16:52 starting the fast (which runs from sundown until the next night when you can see three stars).

After Bonnie's I went to find Naomi at the Reform Synagogue near the King David Hotel. This meant I was walking (no buses on holidays). This is a lovely walk from my house anyway, but it was more spectacular on account of the limited traffic.  Bonnie had mentioned that Jews are not to wear leather on Yom Kippur so that explained the obviously observant and nattily dressed men in running shoes! I found the synagogue, but not Naomi. The service was very busy with no seats to spare. After listening to a few songs I left. The walk back home was lovely as the streets had begun to fill with people. Over the next few hours people (mostly wearing white) streamed into the streets to enjoy a festive, but restrained, community visit. Emek Refaim is particularly popular and a great place to see this.

Even those who don't practice Judaism seem to have agreed to not drive their cars. The result is this incredible car free experience where you might think Yom Kippur is Hebrew for ride your bike or skateboard recklessly down the hills hollering at the top of your lungs. Given what its seems a cyclist normally has to put up with in this city it would seem about the right level of celebration. And, Yom Kippur gives Israel an opportunity to do what few (or perhaps no) other country can do -- it can baseline air pollution levels. I think I'll go for a run tomorrow morning to take advantage.