Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Autumn in Jerusalem

Autumn officially started for me this morning. The nights have been cool this past week dipping to 15C (I know, I know) chilling the apartment I'm staying in. I have put an extra blanket on my bed. And, I've had my heavy slippers on in the evenings to insulate against the cold tile floors. (If you know me, you know about my cold feet and love of blankets.) I even started a knitting project last night! But, only this morning when I had an early morning shower that was tepid did it really occur to me that the seasons have changed.

In summer you can count on the solar panel on the roof to give hot water on demand anytime, even in the middle of the night. Yesterday was the first somewhat cloudy day we've had (and by cloudy, I mean a day that would be described in Canada as sunny with cloudy periods, but here as cloudy with sunny periods). And, it was dusty. So, it would seem, the solar heater didn't get its usual hit of energy. Therefore my shower was not as hot as I like it it might have been. All that to say it's autumn. Tepid showers or turn the boiler on!

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Courage or Conspiracy?

Okay, not exactly the neighbourhood, but in the region. 

Hats off (or hijabs?) to the Saudi women who made Saturday, October 26 a day of protest and drove themselves around flouting the national law that prohibits women from driving.

Yup, a few-several-dozens (??) (it's not clear how many) courageous ladies (who learned to drive elsewhere) got behind the wheel of a motor vehicle and drove it. In most cases not too far, but still, the very act itself is powerful. This small action day is possibly a revolutionary practice.  And it certainly (and obviously) offended religious clerics who claimed women driving is a conspiracy.  

Go Saudi women drivers!!


Monday, October 28, 2013

Dressing Bodies

On a recent average day on the interwebs I, as one is wont, came across a few stories about women's bodies, some famous, some not.  These sites I visited are typically commenting on North American or British cultural figures (since I mostly surf the web in English). These stories can be about slut shaming women or fat or thin shaming women's bodies. Basically, all this stuff seems to come down to policing women's bodies and how we use our bodies. After two stints of living in the Middle East, first in Doha, Qatar and now in Jerusalem, Israel, I'm left to conclude that body policing is ever present for women. But the feeling is different in the West than in the Middle East.

There are no commercial billboards in Jerusalem. None. Really, I know, this is hard to believe, but it's true. Not a one. No billboards means no half-naked airbrushed bodies (of any gender) staring at you as you move around town. (This is also true in Doha, but more surprising in Jerusalem because other Israeli cities do have them.) I love this. I don't feel harassed about what I'm wearing or not wearing. It's totally refreshing to shop without being told what to buy all the time. (I loved Christmas in Doha for the same reason; it was marketing free!) There's also no advertising on the buses. Although, it might be good if Egged (Jerusalem's bus company) added those ads that Translink has about don't been an idiot on the bus by wearing your headphones at max volume and crashing into other people with your backpack.

Along with no billboards is a general absence of massive commercialism. (This is unlike in Doha where people spend money like it grows on trees, cause it kinda does for them.)  In large part this is due to the low income level in much of the city. Jerusalem is poor -- many of the people and the City itself  because it has a bit of a problem collecting taxes from poor people.  In the City Centre of Jerusalem, the main shopping street is Jaffa Rd (the road you used to take to get to Jaffa at the coast). Jaffa Rd has been seriously upgraded by the installation of the LRT and it's a lovely place to walk, have a coffee, and shop. Many of the retail spaces on Jaffa are too small to interest the major global brands or chains (who often put up those big glossy billboards) to set up shop. You have to go to the big mall in the south end of the City (Malha) to find chain stores; it is destination shopping. There's a mall near the Old City, Mamilla, but it is relatively small and its outdoor design gives the illusion that you are walking through a downtown street.  (Which you sort of are because Mamilla Mall connects the Old City's Jaffa Gate to the "New" City's Municipal Hall.)

Jerusalem is a conservative, religious city. This is why there are no billboards: the Ultra-Orthodox protested against them (and they know how to protest e.g., lighting street fires, turning out en masse to rallies, etc.). At least half of the population of Jerusalem is observant religious and they dress according to religious precedent. This means you can sort people into general categories based on their clothes. Thanks to a fantastic exhibit last fall at the Israel Museum on the Haredim, I quickly learned to distinguish Orthodox and Ultra-Orthodox women on the streets of Jerusalem. Orthodox Jewish women wear long sleeves and skirts (below the knee) of all sorts. Ultra-Orthodox women wear long sleeves (usually of stripes), long skirts (black or navy) to the mid-calf or ankle, and heavy stockings (even in the summer). All married Orthodox or Ultra-Orthodox women cover their hair (hats, scarves, wigs). Ultra-Orthodox men are in black pants and suit jackets, with a white long-sleeved shirt. Orthodox men may wear khakis and a collared shirt with a tallit  (prayer shawl) underneath and the tassels hanging out. All Orthodox or Ultra-Orthodox men (regardless of marriage status) will wear kippa (yarmulke). Kippas can be useful to distinguish what sub group a man belongs to; same for the black hats of the Haredim.

I observe fewer Muslims in Jerusalem than Jews so I'm less clear on their distinctions. It seems that depending on their level of observance Arab Muslim women of East Jerusalem may wear tight clothing with or without a chador/abaya or long-sleeved ankle-length coat on top. And, many Muslim women over the age of 13 will wear hijab. But not all: Sometimes you see the jarring combination of skinny jeans, a very short tunic, and hijab. No doubt there is a good explanation for that combination, but I'd only be speculating at this point. Arab Muslim men often wear long sleeve shirts with khaki pants; occasionally I see men dressed in khakis and long shirts with a sports jacket and a kaffiya.

Jerusalem's secular population (I'm in here) tends to keep things pretty conservative while in Jerusalem. It's just easier (and frankly, safer) to move around town when your hemlines and necklines aren't pushing religious conservative boundaries. That doesn't mean that secular women dress like religious women, it just means you keep more conscious of how you dress in Jerusalem than you would in, for example, Tel Aviv.

Clearly body policing exists in both the West (North America and Western Europe and Tel Aviv, Israel) and the East (relatively more traditional Middle East), but it is different. In the East it's about wearing enough clothing to be "respectable", and "under control". It seems that men, when they see bits of the female body can be tempted to behave "badly" or something. I'm still slightly confused on this point. When I first lived in Doha, I was terrified of Sharia law. (A friend of a friend of mine was pulling all the diplomatic strings she could find to try to resolve a nasty Sharia problem on account of her having flipped the bird at an aggressive male driver. Very scary.) Every morning my routine included a quick clothing scan before I left the house: knees - covered? elbows - covered? jacket and pashmina for cover up? If that's not a form of body policing, I don't know what is. I never encountered one myself, but there were stories that in the early 2000s, the relgious mullahs used to stalk the malls in Doha (Landmark and City Centre) carrying short whips. When they came upon a Western woman they considered to be immodestly dressed they took action with the whip and, I gather a stern dressing down in Arabic. While visiting a small town in Oman toward the Yemeni border, I had the unfortunate experience of leaving my ankles exposed (and only my ankles) when out for dinner. Despite my imposing male escort, I became a major attraction (or distraction) on the main street of Salalah. I really would have done anything for an abaya and hijab that night. I envied the women wearing niqab who could just melt into the crowd.

In the West, many women will wear what they want. Not that there aren't social norms about clothing. You don't wear a bikini to the office. But, women will use clothing for personal expression, to experiment with power, to elicit a response. It seems with clothing standards relaxed, the focus moves to our body shape and size, more overtly. Western women began clothing their bodies differently (from the maillot to the bikini; long to mini skirts; turtlenecks to lowcut blouses) as part of their empowerment: revolutions in fashion parallel women's changing social roles from the war and post-war periods. I'm not sure that dressing scantily is the same expression of empowerment as wearing pants was. And, I'm left wondering if we have displaced the efforts to control our bodies through clothing to control through critiques of shape and size?

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Israel Votes

Bibi's coalition is holding together so we're talking about municipal elections today. Israelis vote in municipal elections every five years.

In 2008, the somnolent secular voters of Jerusalem woke up and decided that municipal politics do matter to daily life. Actually, they probably figured that out the morning after the 2003 vote, when the failure to show up at the polls resulted in an ultra orthodox mayor in office. After five years of Haredi leadership, many secular Jerusalemites had moved west to Tel Aviv. In casual conversation people will tell you that the city lost its cultural vitality and became more divided after 2003.

Not surprisingly, voter turnout shot up in 2008. "Zionist" (*more on this below) Nir Barkat (of Yerushaliyim Tatzliah) was elected mayor with 53% of the vote. Just to give you a window on how much a vote can matter, the second place finisher, representing United Torah Judaism (Haredi), had 42% of the vote. At the time of the vote, 2008, the Haredi population was about 32% (about 250,000 people - not all of them voting age) of the city! The Zionist population was around 300,000 people, likely with more of them of voting age.  (Of course, all Canadians remember May 2011 as a good lesson in demographics and voting power, some of us more bitterly than others.)

Voting day in Jerusalem gave a festive mood to the streets as nearly every school or community centre I walked by seemed to be a voting station with folks outside encouraging citizens to vote. Over the last week, parties have been campaigning hard. On several days I was offered pamphlets on candidates or canvassed for my likely vote. It was fun to be an observer because I gather from several folks it was rather a nose-plugging vote this year.

outside a polling station

outside a polling station

campaigning on the day
Nir Barkat - who, by the way, is a high-tech millionaire, the new standard for Israeli politicians (see Naftali Bennett) - has been re-elected, winning by what appears to be about 55% of the vote. Yesterday I read his English election platform. *He talks about the three sectors of the city as Haredi, Arab, and Zionist. The first two are self-explanatory. The third struck me as odd. I thought maybe it was a translation issue, as in maybe the concept in English wasn't quite there. But, no, it turns out that is the term used for the basket of Jewish Israeli Jerusalemites who are not ultra-Orthodox. Basically, they are the tax-paying, engaged citizens of the city. The language gets so tricky here because every group in engaged in their own way, but the two other groups have much more specific agendas and live in more isolated communities.

The divided nature of Jerusalem cannot be escaped. It is perhaps both most veiled and most obvious in municipal elections. Again in 2013, it appears that Arab Jerusalem abstained from voting for the mayor. A NYT article on Monday reported that in 2008 only "2,744 East Jerusalem Arabs voted, a participation rate of 1.8 percent, compared with 60 percent in the city’s Jewish neighborhoods." This tradition of not voting is part of the Palestinian leadership's "anti-normalization" campaign that chooses to not engage with Israeli politics.

From the article:
“The whole thing is not really rational,” said Sari Nusseibeh, president of Al Quds University, whose family has 1,300-year roots in Jerusalem. “It’s not by reason that people are guided; it’s by sentiments and feelings and fears and histories.” 
There are some 360,000 Arab Jerusalemites and probably more than a third of them could vote. If they voted like the Haredim, in a block, they could have a serious impact on the city's politics. But, again quoting from the NYT article:
Alaa Obeid, 23, a student who briefly flirted with running for City Council this year on a new slate promoting the environment and women’s empowerment, said she and most other Palestinian residents rarely thought about why they did not vote. It is just not part of the culture, she said.
“In our society, it’s very important what the public thinks,” Ms. Obeid said, explaining why she decided against running. “If all these years, people have boycotted the elections, I might be in a place where there’s a risk to my future. I’ll be an outcast.”
 So, Arab Jerusalemites are once again (still) in limbo with no foreseeable improvement in city services such as garbage collection and public parks. And, no increased political leverage against settlements in East Jerusalem. Meanwhile, if the rapid transit plans of Barkat are built, the united-divided city of Jerusalem will be ever more connected by rail.

Nir Barkat's Transit Plan

The 2008 Israeli census pages I can access don't divide Jewish citizens into Zionists and Haredim. I can tell you that in 2008 about 68% of the city was Jewish and 30% Muslim, with a sprinkling of Christians.

Friday, October 18, 2013

Swiss Report

I'm back in Jerusalem, settling into the patterns of the fall semester at the University. The undergrads are back in full force, my favourite campus coffee shop is gone, and the campus cats are well fed. Before more stories about life in Israel, I thought I'd share a few pictures from my great trip to Switzerland to see my friend, Theresa. My kind and generous hosts really made sure I saw a good amount of central Switzerland from north to south.

Here's a brief tour through the Schweizer Mittelland (the Plateau part of the country that isn't all mountains) and the Alps in the central part of the country.

Basel where the weather was grey and damp


City Hall with Tram

At the market

Mushrooms!

Lucerne and its lake where the weather was splendid!

In English - Lake Lucerne. In German - Vierwaldstättersee - lake of the four forested cantons. Switzerland is a federation of cantons which are a bit like small, highly decentralized provinces with more direct democracy than you can shake a stick at. The Swiss are constantly voting. Seriously. About things like whether petrol stations can sell a particular type of sausage on Sundays. And, about other things...
Lake Lucerne


On the lake cruise (part of the SBB train system) - we were on a +100 year-old steam paddle-wheeler that drinks copious amounts of oil

view of the mid 19th century hotels



old Lucerne

old Lucerne

Theresa and Markus on one of the old covered bridges
Toward the Alps near Bern
We went hiking in what might be called the foothills of the Alps...

On the way up

A view from the top


The Alps - Zermatt and the Matterhorn

From Lenzburg (our base) we took the train to Bern and then south toward a town called Visp, the gateway to Zermatt. At Visp you get on the Matterhorn Train an older, slower train specially made to tackle the mountainous terrain. In many places the Swiss have replaced slower routes through and over the mountains with tunnels because it makes the journey so much faster. There remain a few scenic lines that will likely never been replaced with tunnels: this is one of them. The route from Visp to Zermatt is spectacular. To manage the grade the train has a cog-like mechanism in the middle that can lock on to a chain that runs through the middle of the track. The conductor slows the train to hook in and out of this chain when the grade (up or down) is sufficient to require it. (There are funiculars in Switzerland too, but those typically use a pulley system and are for shorter, steeper tracks.)


Gornergrat rails with cogs
 
Anyone who has spent any time in Whistler or Banff wouldn't be surprised by Zermatt. It's a mountain resort town with loads of stores selling souvenirs and ski gear, cafes, and hotels. Neat feature of Zermatt - all motorized vehicles are electric.

Upper Zermatt
Main Street Zermatt
Electric delivery van (of people - it's a taxi)

At Zermatt we boarded the Gornergrat Train to climb the 1400 metres to the top of the ski resort. The town is at 1620m. The views along the ride were fantastic. 
Tada! The Matterhorn!

 Am I the only one who loved the Matterhorn Ride at Disneyland as a child? When I was 8, on my first trip to Disneyland (I have an uncle who lives near Anaheim) I thought the Matterhorn was the coolest ride. And, I thought it was pretty scary on account of the Abominable Snowman with the red eyes. What was he doing in the Alps anyway? It's such a long walk from the Himalayas. Oh well, it's not like Walt & Co ever minded a little mixed metaphor, factual mashup, is it? Anyway, the real Matterhorn is breathtaking.


Views along the train ride up to the ski resort:


The train route - snow shelter ahead

Cool feature of the train - a map of the route on the table between seats

Looking down the track
 Arrived:
Elevation: High!

ETH Zurich has a research hut just a bit to the right of that green water they are studying climate change in the high alpine

at the high alpine


Yup. They really do wear those little kegs of rum (?); at least in front of the tourists!

 After Zermatt we rode the train back to Wisp and over to Interlaken. Yes, that Interlaken of backpacker fame. It's a lovely town that sits, yup, you guessed it, between two lakes. The next day we took a boat from Interlaken to Brienz (on Lake Brienz), with a stop at Giessbach hotel (that we hiked up to) for our picnic lunch and coffee and pastries.


leaving Interlaken

aboard

Lake Brienz

Lake Brienz
From Brienz we went back to Lenzburg via Lucerne. The journey from Brienze to Lucerne is another fantastically scenic route, the train cars all had observation windows (like side skylights) and the train had a cog wheel. At certain spots the train seemed to only squeeze through slabs of rock as if parking a 4X4 in a "small car only" parking stall with just a hair's width to spare.

Bern where the weather was autumnal again...

The Swiss who don't live in Bern make fun of the Bernese and their town as being slow and boring.  I wondered if the non residents were slagging Bern because it is the seat of the federal government. They are, and it's a bit true. Bern may not be the liveliest town, but it is lovely. Settlement at the old city, a UNESCO heritage site, dates from the 12th century. Unique historical features in Bern include arcades, numerous water fountains, and the Zytglogge.

Zytglogge astronomical clock


fountain with Zytglogge in background
I'm told that potable water pours from every fountain in Switzerland. That is, it's all drinkable water unless there's a sign that says otherwise!
Arcades

Old town

Bern City Hall (found in the Old Town)

Old Town
In the plaza of the Swiss Parliament I watched children and their dog play in the water fountain.
Swiss Bundeshaus - Federal Parliament
 
I spent more time in Zurich than any of the other cities, but I don't have any pictures of the city!


Friday, October 11, 2013

Checkpoint Art

From my trip to Bethlehem in July, here are some pictures of the fantastic art on the east side of the Security Wall that divides the West Bank from Israel near Bethlehem.



I like this one: Ubuntu is a Bantu-Swahili word for humanness





Banksy


Funny



Mural of Jerusalem with dove and ladder
 



Commentary on American civil rights





Close to the checkpoint, a narrow road runs along the wall.


This part of the wall is  "museum" with various testimonies of Palestinians describing their experiences with the wall and Occupation.








 After the Wall Museum, there's a car park before the checkpoint, from here you can see how the wall divides the landscape.