Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Winter in Jerusalem

Is characterized by sweaters, rain (only a few drops so far), bowls of soup, and ripening citrus fruit.



 And, bougainvillea that continue to bloom.


I think sweater weather in mid-November is pretty amazing. I have abandoned my open-toed shoes in favour of sneakers and boots, but I still mostly dress in jeans, a tshirt, and a sweater. Yesterday was the first really cold day we've had; I took an extra layer. Today it's warmed up again and the sun is shining. Amazing. Truly. The climate is spectacular.

Still, it's winter and bowls of soup are on the menu, especially kubbeh soup - an Iraqi-Jewish specialty. Here's an example of a winter lunch we had last week at Azura in Mahane Yehuda. Two bowls of kubbeh soup (a dumpling stuffed with beef and pine nuts) and a ground beef and pine nut-stuffed eggplant. (Getting the theme here?!) Plus hummus and pita of course (oddly pickles and onion were missing that day).

Lunch at Azura


In the courtyard near Azura there is a cafe packed with older men drinking coffee, smoking and playing backgammon. In a city filled with anachronisms, this is one that I worry about the future of. For how long will these old cafes and their Shesh Besh players persist? Will men of my generation be doing this in their retirements? 

Shesh Besh at Mahane Yehuda





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